Gearhead Thread

Diomedes · August 01, 2010, 10:00:11 PM

it's an auto, but yeah 300 straight 6

shorebird · August 01, 2010, 10:05:53 PM

That bike is awesome man, and perfect for gettin' around in town if you have a decent parking space for it.

Diomedes · August 01, 2010, 10:11:32 PM

Thanks.

It wants a good running in order to maintain a charge, so unless you can get it wound up on your way into and out of town, you'll drain the battery in short order just bopping around. Two weeks without a charge, tops. I was more than happy to not have it when I lived in NY because the riding was very often stop and go. Not only would the battery drain at those low revs, but the air cooled engine no likey that.

What it is though is a goddamned gem at speed. Smooth, fast, predictable, reliable, comfortable all day. And I think it's pretty.

I should have mentioned that it's dual-plugged, which is not stock, and a nice improvement. Also, the fly wheel has been drilled. It's got the biggest carbs BMW put on an airhead. For what it is, it's fast.

shorebird · August 01, 2010, 10:16:11 PM

BMW don't make no junk. And you had a BMW pro working on yours.

PhillyPhanInDC · August 01, 2010, 11:18:46 PM

Dio, that's a sunshine cruiser if there ever was one. Beautiful job. Keep it locked up, warm, and dry.

The truck sounds like a good project. Love how it's got the six banger and the dual tanks. I've been looking for a beater truck for awhile, looking to get into for less the a grand, and don't mind fixing stuff if it's not ragged out. I've been scouring Craigslist, et al, with no luck. Seems like I used to be able to throw a rock and hit at least two decent prospects. Nice find.

Tomahawk · August 02, 2010, 02:43:15 AM

Dig the bike...well done

Diomedes · August 10, 2010, 07:14:44 AM

About to buy some parts for the truck and I run across parts that are called "CAPA Certified."

I looked up CAPA, so I get who they are and what they do. My question is, when the part price between non CAPA approved part and an approved part is more than double, what's going on? Is the approved part really that much better? In this case, I'm replacing the parking lamp assemblies on the F250. there are two options under ten bucks and then the CAPA certified optoin for $35. Any idea if the CAPA certified part could possibly be worth the premium?

I'm tempted to pony up the higher amount because these parts in particular are busted on every truck I see at the junkyard. The bolts that hold the assembly together are anchored in the plastic back of the lamp assembly, and every used one I've seen has the same problem: the bolts walk out of the lamp assembly when you attempt to unscrew the nut holding it all together. Since you you have to pull the whole assembly to get the lamps out (I don't have tiny hands, can't pull the lamps without removing the assembly), this poses a problem putting it all back together. I've epoxied the ones I have but that doesn't hold, and I need those bolts to hold because that's all that keeps the whole assembly attached to the truck. If it's rattling around, I'll be replacing bulbs every month. Which means stripping out the bolts worse each time.

I'm wondering, if I get the tested part, maybe I won't have this problem as much? Or maybe I should just buy the cheap ones and be prepared to replace them from time to time.

Anyway...whatever thoughts you guys have on CAPA Certification, etc., lemme know.

Tomahawk · August 10, 2010, 11:08:38 AM

Do they have the CAPA certified part in-store? If it's the exact same design and material, I'd buy cheap.

Try JB Weld instead of epoxy....

PhillyPhanInDC · August 10, 2010, 11:15:26 AM

I'd go with the the standard part for lamp assemblies. CAPA is generally for larger body panels, fenders, quarters, etc., where alignment and material is a big concern, as well as safety (crush zones, impact ratings, and the like.)

One option I's suggest is to drill out the existing plastic bungs for receiving the bolts, then go to Home Depot and get some steel sleeves that will fit the holes, and use JB weld or similar epoxy to secure them into the housing. Then run the bolts into the steel sleeves.

Tomahawk · August 10, 2010, 11:50:18 AM

Finally got the 455 back into the Riv after spinning a rod bearing last year. New cam's duration at .050 is 223 intake and 230 exhaust (stock was probably 200 and 210), bored twenty over, stock pistons were 8.5:1 compression ratio; replacements are advertised as 10:1, but my actual static compression ratio will probably be 9.25to9.5:1

Should be able to fire it up tonight or tomorrow at the latest...can't wait to hear the new cams lope as long as it lasts. Right now I can proudly state every single nut and bolt inside and outside the motor has been torqued down by me

Diomedes · August 10, 2010, 12:09:18 PM

Thanks guys.

Quote from: Tomahawk on August 10, 2010, 11:50:18 AMRight now I can proudly state every single nut and bolt inside and outside the motor has been torqued down by me

That's no small accomplishment...way over my head yet. Someday.

Tomahawk · August 10, 2010, 01:30:04 PM

Quote from: Diomedes on August 10, 2010, 12:09:18 PM
Thanks guys.

Quote from: Tomahawk on August 10, 2010, 11:50:18 AMRight now I can proudly state every single nut and bolt inside and outside the motor has been torqued down by me

That's no small accomplishment...way over my head yet. Someday.

As proud of myself as I am, I don't think it's as difficult as you're making it out to be. It's just nuts and bolts...it was probably more difficult to keep everything organized than to actually rebuild the engine

PhillyPhanInDC · August 11, 2010, 11:22:53 AM

Quote from: Tomahawk on August 10, 2010, 01:30:04 PM
Quote from: Diomedes on August 10, 2010, 12:09:18 PM
Thanks guys.

Quote from: Tomahawk on August 10, 2010, 11:50:18 AMRight now I can proudly state every single nut and bolt inside and outside the motor has been torqued down by me

That's no small accomplishment...way over my head yet. Someday.

As proud of myself as I am, I don't think it's as difficult as you're making it out to be. It's just nuts and bolts...it was probably more difficult to keep everything organized than to actually rebuild the engine

For real. Rebuilding an engine is one of those things where you can't believe you haven't done it before once you finish. As long as you are clean, prepared, and organized, it's not hard at all. It's actually great fun.

Diomedes · August 11, 2010, 08:41:43 PM

I barely understand the basic parts of an engine and how they interact. Nevermind the ignorance barrier, and also the fact that I'm not a natural mechanic by any stretch of imagination, in order to rebuild an engine you need time, and the will to apply yourself and actually get it done.

l lack in every one of these categories.

And we haven't even talked about money.

PhillyPhanInDC · August 11, 2010, 09:00:38 PM

The first motor I ever built was a Chevy 350. I bought a rebuild kit out of a Hot Rod magazine for $250, used an electric drill to hone the cylinders, etc., and built in after school. Took me about a month. I put in an old '84 Camaro, and it ran well until I took it out and put something else in it. If you ever have the opportunity to tear one down, do so, it's really interesting to see how all the part interact.